Upstairs At The Ten Bells – London E1

December 19, 2013 § Leave a comment

Above the “Jack the Ripper” pub, enjoy an inspired menu of murderously good food.

Ever since my first dinner at The Clove Club earlier this year, I have wanted to visit the sister restaurant, Upstairs At The Ten Bells. A little Christmas treat of a dinner with Amanda was the perfect excuse. The four course set menu (£39 per person) is the only option on offer but you wouldn’t want anything else.

We started with a ‘Ten Bells Damson Gin Fizz‘ (and a vodka alternative for the non-gin-drinker) before being presented with some ‘Snacks‘.
 
Celeriac & Pickled Girolle Cannelloni & Walnut Pesto’ was surpringly squidgy. I liked the texture of the thin peel of celeriac, filled with creamy cheese although it wouldn’t be everyone’s cup of tea. The ‘Walnut Pesto’ was super though.
 
Much more of a crowd pleaser was the ‘Buttermilk Fried Pheasant & Pine Salt’ and the ‘Cornish Mussels, Cider Butter & Savoy Cabbage’. The game-y pheasant was crisp and salty and utterly devourable whilst the seafood dish begged to be licked clean; the cider butter rich yet still light.
 
The ‘Treacle Cured Salmon, Citrus Mousseline & Kohlrabi’ was the best salmon I have ever tasted; strongly fishy, with a subtle sweetness and a depth of flavour that smoked salmon can only dream of. The silky smooth, velvety soft and nothng short of incredible ‘Chestnut & Truffle Veloute, Brussel Sprouts & Celery Root’ demanded a ‘wow’. It got one; from each of us in return.
 
Our mains of Featherblade Beef, Swede, Smoked Bone Marrow Butter & Cavolo Nero‘ and ‘Roast Hake, Cauliflower, Cime di Rapa & Brown Shrimp’ were respectively meaty and rich, and light and crisp. The Featherblade fell apart at the touch of the fork. The Hake’s crisp skin and soft flesh was a delight.
 
Now Amanda is one of those annoying ladies who “doesn’t eat dessert” but it didn’t take long for me to convince her to try the ‘Roast Quince, Yoghurt Mousse & Almond Crumbs‘ – the combination of bitter yoghurt, sweet fruit and almondy crunch was like a breakfast of kings.The ‘Gianduja Chocolate Pave, Pecan Praline & Brown Butter Ice Cream’ delivered everything you would expect: rich, chocolatey, sweet and heavenly.

Not that we needed more, but ‘Mince Pies & Clementines‘ were a perfectly festive end to the evening.

Considering how highy I rank The Clove Club, dinner at The Ten Bells had a lot to live upto. But it hit the mark every step of the way. I don’t think I can say more than that.

Dinner for two: £95 (4 course set menu with cocktails, mince pies & clementines)
Drinks: Bottle of wine from £19
tenbells.com

Nearby bars: The Ten Bells Pub – London E1
You might also like: The Clove Club – London EC1V (Read Full Review)

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